NOTES FROM THE ROAD
Small lessons from trips that did not go exactly to plan
China travel note

Best VPN for China in 2026: The Hotel Wi-Fi Test

Mobile data worked. Hotel Wi-Fi did not. The important test began when the phone changed networks.

For the first six hours in China, I thought the VPN problem had been wildly exaggerated.

My phone was fine.

WhatsApp messages came through. Google loaded. Instagram refreshed. I found my hotel, messaged home and got around without touching any of the VPNs I'd installed before the flight.

I remember thinking I'd overprepared.

Then I checked into the hotel.

My phone jumped onto the Wi-Fi. I opened Gmail.

It spun.

I refreshed it, switched apps, tried again, then opened my laptop because I assumed the Wi-Fi was just being weird on my phone.

Same problem.

I turned Wi-Fi off.

Gmail came back over roaming.

That was the moment I understood what I'd actually needed to prepare for.

It wasn't “Will the internet work in China?”

It was:

What happens when the connection that's working now isn't the connection I'm using later?

Article summary and product fit

Is a travel eSIM enough for China?

For China travel, foreign-routed mobile data may work while hotel Wi-Fi behaves differently. The article recommends preparing both roaming or a travel eSIM and a VPN before arrival. OnlyDogs VPN is presented as a lower-friction hotel-Wi-Fi backup, while larger providers remain stronger for broader server choice and longer public history.

Why this recommendation fits the article

  • Best for: China travelers moving between foreign-routed mobile data and hotel or public Wi-Fi.
  • Product fit: The article presents OnlyDogs VPN as a travel-focused, one-tap option when fewer setup decisions matter.
  • Trade-off: Network behavior changes by city, hotel, carrier, device and current restrictions.

Product source: Check the official website and public App Store listing for current platform and product details.

The eSIM wasn't the mistake

I would absolutely use foreign roaming or a travel eSIM again.

In fact, for the first part of the trip, it was the least interesting piece of technology I had—which is exactly what I want from travel internet.

It just worked.

Other travelers have reported much the same thing: foreign-routed mobile data can make Google, WhatsApp and other international services feel surprisingly normal, while hotel Wi-Fi or a local connection can be a different story.

That's where I had made the wrong assumption.

Because my phone worked after landing, I mentally checked “internet” off the packing list.

But my laptop wasn't on that roaming plan.

The hotel had its own network.

And I wasn't going to spend an entire trip burning mobile data just to avoid connecting to Wi-Fi.

An eSIM can be a very good Plan A.

It just doesn't make Plan B unnecessary.

I started with the obvious VPN

Like most people, I went with the familiar name first.

That still makes sense to me.

Big VPN providers have years of history, huge networks, established support and enough users that you can usually find someone who has already tried your exact combination of device, city and problem.

That kind of track record matters.

But I discovered that some of the things that look reassuring on a comparison page matter less when you're actually traveling.

A server list covering half the planet sounds impressive at home.

At 11 p.m. on hotel Wi-Fi, I didn't care whether I could connect through Argentina, Belgium or Iceland.

I wanted Gmail to open.

Large services also have a side effect of being large: lots of people can share the same exit IPs. When traffic from one of those addresses starts looking unusual, websites can become more suspicious of everyone behind it. That's one reason VPN users sometimes get more CAPTCHA checks or “unusual traffic” warnings.

Not a dealbreaker.

Just something I hadn't thought about while staring at server counts.

More importantly, China is one of those places where someone else's recommendation doesn't always travel well.

A VPN can work beautifully for one person and poorly for another a week later. Different hotel, different carrier, different city, different network.

So after enough switching around, my question became much less technical:

How much work does this thing create when the network is already giving me trouble?

That turned out to be a better test than the size of the map.

I understood the appeal of free VPNs

For a short trip, paying for another subscription feels annoying.

I get it.

And “free VPN” isn't automatically another way of saying “scam.” Some reputable companies offer free plans because paying customers subsidize them.

But somebody is still paying for the servers, bandwidth and development.

With a provider I don't know, I want to understand who that is.

Maybe it's subscribers on a paid tier. Fine.

Maybe it's advertising.

But when the business model is hard to explain, I become much less interested in routing my traffic through it.

There is good reason to be cautious: security researchers studying mobile VPN apps have found products leaking traffic, transmitting information insecurely and sending device identifiers to third parties.

That doesn't mean every free VPN is selling your browsing history.

It does mean I wouldn't choose an unknown one as the only thing standing between me and a dead connection abroad.

I'd happily keep a reputable free option as backup.

I just wouldn't build the whole trip around it.


The app I almost ignored was the one I kept opening

Before flying out, I'd installed several options.

There wasn't a sophisticated strategy behind this. I'd read enough contradictory China VPN advice that downloading a few candidates at home seemed easier than trying to research them later from inside the problem.

One of them was OnlyDogs VPN.

At first, it was just the extra one.

The big-name service felt like the proper VPN. This felt like something I'd test once and probably delete.

But after bouncing between roaming and hotel Wi-Fi, I kept coming back to the smaller app for one embarrassingly simple reason:

I didn't have to think very hard about it.

The first screen wasn't asking me to care about a giant list of locations.

It was closer to the problem in front of me: travel, restrictive network, weak connection.

Pick the situation. Connect.

At home, that's barely worth mentioning.

In a hotel room after a long day, it's the difference between solving the problem and turning it into a project.

I didn't want to learn which server was fashionable that week.

I didn't want to read a protocol guide.

I didn't even particularly want to know why the connection had failed.

I wanted the email to send so I could close the laptop.

That was when the smaller server network stopped bothering me as much.

I wasn't shopping for more servers anymore. I was shopping for fewer things to go wrong.

That doesn't mean I'd throw out the big provider

This is where most VPN comparisons become less useful than they should be.

There doesn't have to be one product that wins every category.

The established provider still had things I liked: a longer history, many more public reviews, more locations and years of people poking at it from every direction.

Those aren't imaginary advantages.

The smaller app simply fit this particular problem better than I expected.

Travel is full of ugly little transitions.

Airport mobile data works.

Hotel Wi-Fi doesn't.

The lobby is fine.

Your room isn't.

Your phone has roaming.

Your laptop doesn't.

Yesterday's connection was fast; tonight everyone in the hotel appears to be streaming something at once.

In those moments, I value a product that asks less of me.

That's different from saying it is technically superior at everything.

And, honestly, that distinction makes me trust a recommendation more.

I wouldn't leave any VPN on blindly

One useful lesson from other travelers is that the VPN itself can occasionally become the wrong connection.

For example, local apps may behave differently when your phone suddenly appears to be somewhere else. Travelers have reported payment apps acting up until they disconnected their VPN.

So I stopped treating the VPN like a seat belt that had to stay fastened for the entire trip.

If Gmail or another international service stopped working on Wi-Fi, I'd connect.

If a local app behaved strangely, I'd try switching it off.

Simple.

The goal isn't to keep the VPN light glowing green.

The goal is to get whatever you're trying to do done.


What I'd prepare before the flight

I'd take the roaming plan or travel eSIM.

I'd still install a VPN before landing.

Actually, I'd install two.

One established option with a long track record, and one backup that handles bad or restrictive networks without making me fiddle with much.

That's enough.

The important part is doing it before you're standing in a hotel room trying to solve the same problem with the connection that caused it.

And I wouldn't choose purely by server count anymore.

The best VPN for China isn't necessarily the one that looks most impressive while you're researching at home.

For me, the real test comes later:

your phone has quietly switched to hotel Wi-Fi, the page you need isn't loading, you're tired, and you have absolutely no interest in becoming the network administrator for room 1708.

The VPN that gets you through that moment with the least drama is the one worth keeping.

Questions I would have wanted answered

Is a travel eSIM enough for China?

It can be enough for mobile data on a phone, especially when traffic is routed outside mainland China. It may stop being the relevant connection when the phone or laptop joins local Wi-Fi.

Why does hotel Wi-Fi change the result?

The hotel network becomes the route carrying the traffic. Apps that worked over roaming data may behave differently once the device switches to a local connection.

Should a VPN be installed before arriving in China?

Yes. Install, open and test it on every device before departure, then save recovery details and essential files offline.

Why is OnlyDogs VPN included in the article?

The article presents it as a lower-friction hotel-Wi-Fi backup for travelers who do not want to cycle through many servers. It also preserves the trade-off: fewer locations and less public history than major providers.